The Scotch Whisky Masters 2024 results - The Spirits Business (2024)

The sheer variety of excellent Scotch whiskies that our judges were given to appraise in our annual blind-tasting competition shows that there is something for every taste.

April and May make up Scotch whisky festival season. It begins with the annual Spirit of Speyside event, leading to the Campbeltown Malts Festival, and ending with the ever-popular Feìs Ìle on Islay. Whisky lovers the world over flock to these annual events, eager to get a glimpse inside some of their favourite distilleries, and, no doubt, to meet many like-minded Scotch fans.

While the category experienced a decline in exports in 2023 compared with 2022, there is no denying its popularity worldwide. When put against pre-pandemic 2019 figures, the value of Scotch exports in 2023 was up by 14%, the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) reported. Total global export figures in 2023 exceeded £5.6 billion (US$7bn), with the equivalent of approximately 1.35bn 700ml bottles exported. The category remains optimistic, despite the drop from the £6.2bn export record set in 2022, something of a ‘bumper’ anomaly, according to the SWA.

The Scotch Whisky Masters blind-tasting competition is a highlight of The Global Spirits Masters Competitions (GSMC) calendar. Multiple panels of whisky experts gathered last month at Boisdale in London’s Canary Wharf to sample everything from blends and blended malts to single malts, cask strength bottlings, and limited edition releases.

Forming the first panel were wine and spirits judge Marie Cheong-Thong, of The Larder at 36, and Dan Greifer, bar supervisor at Black Parrot. The team was chaired by Nicola Carruthers, deputy editor of The Spirits Business. The second group consisted of freelance drinks writer Caroline Roddis, and whisky specialist Renata Malakauskiene. Matt Chambers, whisky writer and co-founder of the Whisky For Everyone blog chaired the panel.

Billy Abbott, ambassador for The Whisky Exchange, led the third team. He was accompanied by Luke Williams, Harrods assistant buyer, and Malika Kirchel-Sharper, Boisdale bar manager. Anne Jones, director of Limestone and Jones, chaired a fourth panel, which included Antony Moss, spirits judge and consultant, and James Bunting, founder of New Make Comms. The final panel of tasters comprised Vicky Ilankovan, editor-in-chief of Sated Online and executive director of Equal Measures, Nick Larsson-Bell, senior buyer at Harvey Nichols, and Karen Taylor, co-founder of the Whisky For Everyone blog, who chaired the group.

The tasting started with a selection of no-age-statement blended whiskies, and set the bar high for the rest of the day. Two Master medals were awarded in this flight – both of which went to Turntable Spirits. The producer’s Smokin’ Riff received the top award for its “layered aromas of dried fruit” leading to “spice and polished mahogany” with a “compelling finish”. Master-winning Bittersweet Symphony was enjoyed for its “smooth texture” and notes of “fruit, a hint of wood smoke and spice with Demerara sugar”. “These were all very good samples, very well made. Delicious drinks,” said Cheong-Thong.

Four Gold medals were also enjoyed in the opening round, including one for Sir Edward’s Finest, summed up as being “well made, well balanced and smooth”. Two Silver medals completed the first flight.

Brown sugar

The following round of Blended – Aged up to 12 Years Old whiskies delivered a trio of Gold medals and one Silver. The Gold winners were: Islay Mist 10 Years Old Blended Scotch Whisky, which had a “lovely biscuit and nuttiness on the palate”; Sir Edward’s 12 Years, which had a “fruity nose, oily mouthfeel and woody, spicy finish”; and Old Parr 12 Years Old, which left notes of “brown sugar, lovely dried fruits with background smoke” on the finish.

Blends aged between 13 and 18 years were put to the taste test next, with two reaching the Gold-standard mark: White Heather 15 Years Old and Johnnie Walker 18 Years Old. White Heather impressed the judges with its fruity flavours of “poached pears, honeydew lemon” leading to “toffee and baking spices”. Johnnie Walker 18 Years Old brought sweet “golden syrup” notes, enhanced by a “rich and vibrant palate with lovely, grainy undertones”. Two Silver medals completed the flight.

The judges then swapped age statements for price points, putting blended whiskies in the standard price bracket (up to £20/US$26) through their paces. Demonstrating great value for money were four Gold-worthy blends: Highland Black 8 Years Old Whisky; James King 8 Years Old Blended Scotch Whisky; Label 5 – Bourbon Barrel; and Label 5 – Classic Black. The latter winner was enjoyed for its “elegant and aromatic nose”, leading to a “soft and creamy palate, with cereal notes, baking spice and a whiff of gentle peat smoke in the background”. Seven Silver medallists made this a high-scoring round, indeed.

More Gold medallists were celebrated in the premium flight, featuring whiskies costing between £21 and £30. Diageo collected two Golds for Johnnie Walker Black Label and the brand’s Black Ruby bottling. Macduff International (Scotch Whisky) won the final Gold in this heat, its Islay Mist having a “touch of savouriness contrasting against sweet orchard fruit”. Three Silver medals were also enjoyed in this round.

A strong flight of super-premium blends – priced between £31 and £51 – came next, producing four Gold medals and a Silver. Wolfie’s Whisky, co-founded by singer Rod Stewart, was among the Gold winners, praised for being “fruity and smooth with a whisper of smoke; soft and attractive”.

At the most expensive end of the blended section, Ultra-Premium (£51 and above), two Masters and two Golds delighted the judges. The top accolades were bestowed upon Johnnie Walker High Rye, and Johnnie Walker Blue Label. The High Rye whisky was enjoyed for having “glorious aromas of Golden Delicious apples, honeysuckle and caramelised bananas”. The palate was said to be “elegant and precise – classy and effortless. Whispers, doesn’t shout.”

Celestial by Compass Box collected a Gold medal in the Blended – Special Edition flight, offering “bold peat, ginger spice and fresh menthol”.

Blended Malts came next, starting with no-age-statement bottlings. Three whiskies impressed the judges enough to secure the top Master award. JG Thomson Sweet Blended Malt received the medal for being “elegant” with “delicate oak and vanilla fudge” flavours. Master-winning Chapter 7 Prologue Peated was “slightly smoky, creamy and beautifully textured – savoury and meaty”, noted one judge. “Gentle heat and a rich texture” helped Rock Island Sherry Edition secure a Master medal, along with its “long and spicy finish”. Its stablemate Timorous Beastie Meet the Beast 2023 was one of four Gold medallists in this flight, which finished with five Silver awards.

As the blended malts moved on to look at age statements, MacNair’s Lum Reek 10 Years Old was deemed Gold-worthy in the Aged up to 12 Years flight, alongside its 12-year-old version, which also collected Gold in this heat.

In the oldest segment of the blended malts, those aged from 19 to 30 years, JG Thomson Rich 23 Years Old Blended Malt maintained the Gold standard. Tasting notes included “cinnamon and star anise, lemon pith and pomelo rind”.

From there, the Blended Malts were assessed according to their costs, starting with those priced between £31 and £50. Two entrants were awarded Gold medals, and three received Silvers. Compass Box collected Gold for Orchard House, while Noble Rebel Orchard Outburst Blended Malt received Gold for its “expressive” profile.

The Ultra-Premium contingent, comprising whiskies priced at £51 and above, made a deep impression on the judges. Three whiskies won Master medals – two of which went to bottlings from Elixir Distillers. The company’s Elements of Islay Sherry Cask was one Master recipient, and Elements of Islay Bourbon Cask was the other. The latter whisky was enjoyed for its “nice balance of smokiness and sweetness” and its “well-balanced higher ABV”.

Clydebuilt Draughtsman was the third Master winner in this flight, celebrated for its “rich, rounded and spicy” aroma, leading to “similar flavours on the palate with butter icing and well-balanced spice”. Three Golds and a Silver medal closed the flight.

Compass Box increased its medal haul in the Blended Grain – Special Edition flight, with a Gold award for Hedonism 2024. Tasting notes included “honeyed cereals, stewed apples and warming spice”.

An Ultra-Premium Blended Grain set a high standard and took home a Master medal. That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s Blended Grain 30 Years Old gave “fruity, green apple” notes on the nose. Its profile was described as “refreshingly uplifting” with a “clean, soft, silky finish”. Sweet 1972 Blended Grain Scotch Whisky was awarded a Gold medal.

In the Single Grain – No Age Statement round, Spearhead Single Grain was awarded Gold. In the premium segment (£26-£40) Loch Lomond Single Grain was given a Silver medal.

The Single Grain – Single Cask entries produced a Master medal and one Gold. The higher accolade was given to Cask Noir ‘Ghost of the Hill’, which was “controlled despite the higher ABV, with crème brûlée and a touch of struck match”.

The Single Malt part of the tasting divided the whiskies by region, price points and age statements. To begin with, the judges looked at single malts from the Highlands and Islands, bottled without age statements. A trio of Golds were unearthed here, including one for Glencadam Reserva PX, which had hints of “liquorice, cacao and dried fruit”.

Five Gold medals and two Silver awards were found in the Aged up to 12 Years flight. Three out of the five Golds were awarded to Loch Lomond Group whiskies, while the remaining two went to bottlings from John Dewar & Sons. Aberfeldy Madeira Cask 12 Years Old was described as “very classic: toasted oak, cloves, honey and butterscotch”.

In the higher-age group, aged between 13 and 18 years, Glencadam 15 Years Old 2008 Madeira Cask Finish grabbed a Master medal. “Rich aromas with plenty of baked stone fruit and grilled honeyed peaches,” noted one judge. “Lush and smooth.”

Five Gold medals – including awards for Aberfeldy 16 Years Old and Royal Brackla Palo Cortado 18 Years Old – were also awarded, along with two Silvers.

The Master run continued into the Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Aged Between 19 and 30 Years round. Royal Brackla Pedro Ximénez 25 Years Old was the first Master winner in this heat. “Raisins, delicate woodiness and Jamaica ginger cake” were notable tasting notes, complemented by “juicy ripe tropical fruits in the background.” The second Master in this heat went to “rich and bold” Royal Brackla Oloroso, Palo Cortado & Pedro Ximénez 21 Years Old. Two Golds boosted John Dewar & Sons’s standings.

Sherry bomb

During the Single Malt: Highlands & Islands – Single Cask flight, one Gold and one Silver medal were awarded to whiskies from The Single Cask. The Gold medal was given to “Sherry bomb” The Single Cask Teaninich #708015D Finished in First-Fill Sherry Octave.

Golds and Silvers were aplenty in the following flights. A Gold medal was awarded to Glen Marnoch Highland Single Malt in the Standard flight (up to £25). One Silver was also awarded. In the Premium heat (£26-£50) three Gold medals – including two for Loch Lomond expressions – were delivered, alongside one Silver.

As the Super-Premium contingent was reached, two more Masters medals joined the fold. That Boutique-y Whisky Company collected another Master for its Peated Highland Whisky 18 Years Old. The judges enjoyed the whisky’s “fruit and creosote smokiness with building spice”.

R&B Distillers also received a Master medal for Tourism Destination of the Year Release – Ex-Manzanilla Sherry Cask Matured, praised for having a palate “packed with fruit, brown sugar and cinnamon”. Additionally, a Gold medal was given to Tullibardine 18 Years Old. Two Golds were also awarded in the following Single Cask flight, including one for Chapter 7 Monologue.

The final round in Highlands & Islands, Cask Strength, saw a Master go to Isle of Raasay Cask Strength, praised for its “solid smokiness on the nose, leading into a softer than expected palate, especially for the ABV”. Two Golds were also awarded in the flight.

“The 19-30 flight showed what can be achieved with the clever use of casks,” said Roddis. “It was also great to see a good diversity of styles across the category.”

Chambers was just as impressed. He added: “The 19-30 flight was exceptional, and even better than expected. The subtlety of the casks and sympathetic use points the way as to how it should be done.”

Moving from the Highlands and Islands to Campbeltown, and the Silver and Gold awards kept coming. In the no-age-statement heat, Glen Scotia Double Cask Rum Finish collected a Silver medal, before “rich, full and luscious” Glen Scotia 10 Years Old received a Gold award in the Aged up to 12 Years round. The brand’s 15-year-old also picked up a Gold medal in the Aged Between 13 and 18 Years segment, as the Glen Scotia Double Cask Single Malt also made the Gold standard in the Premium (£26-£50) heat. In the Special Edition round, Glen Scotia Campbeltown Malts Festival Limited Edition – 9 Years Old Fino Sherry Finish continued the Gold streak.

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s (SMWS) 93.209 – A Musing Moment took the top award in the Single Cask flight. The whisky was “vibrant and tropical” to smell, delivering “uplifting fruit and vanilla, white chocolate and a flinty finish” when tasted. And in the last Campbeltown heat, featuring a cask-strength whisky from Loch Lomond Group, Glen Scotia Victoriana Single Malt joined the Gold ranks.

The next region to take the taste test was the Lowlands, starting with no-age-statement entries. A Gold medal went to Bladnoch’s The Wave. This whisky set the tone for the next two flights, it would appear, with Gold medals all round for: Holyrood’s Single Cask Series – Cask #58 in the super-premium (£51-£99) flight; and two Golds, including one for Whiskyheroes ‘Defender of the Crown’ Single Malt, in the Single Cask contingent.

Rancio notes

Glasgow Distillery Co took two medals in the Single Malt: Lowland – Cask Strength sector, including a Gold for Glasgow 1770 – Peated Cask Strength. The judges enjoyed complex “rancio notes, sponge cake and caramelised walnuts”. “Impressively well-integrated alcohol,” said Jones. “This was superior due to its more natural expressive character, with bold but balanced wood influence.”

From there, the panels turned their attention to Speyside – starting, of course, with bottlings without age statements. Three Silvers and a trio of Golds got the region off to a strong start. Angus Dundee Distillers was responsible for five of the six medals in this flight, including a Gold for “bold and rich” Tomintoul Pedro Ximénez Cask Finish.

Four Gold medals and two Silvers made for a strong round in the Aged up to 12 Years age group – but it was the two Master winners that left lasting impressions. First of all, The Glenallachie’s Meikle Tòir Sherry secured the top award, described as “smoky and sweet” – really rich and delicious with a decent amount of Sherry coming through”. Master-winning Aultmore Oloroso Sherry Cask 12 Years Old was praised for its “sweet prune, lovely balance, and a rich and long finish”.

The Master medals continued as the age statements rose. Among the 13- to 18-year-old whiskies, two were deemed deserving of the top award. The Singleton of Glen Ord 15 Years Old was presented with a Master for its “juicy and vibrant” palate; tropical fruity with peach and apricot, raisins and sultanas, milk chocolate and a hint of candied orange peel”.

Craigellachie also collected the Master accolade here after the judges discovered “nectarine and honeyed Shreddies” on the nose, and “dried woodiness, bursts of fresh citrus, coffee and mocha” on the palate.

Six Golds – including Mortlach 16 Years Old – and three Silvers brought the flight to a close. “The best category of the day,” enthused Taylor and her team. “It shows the range of Speyside. There is a high level of ageing but they retained juiciness and high levels of fruit. Noticeable as Speyside, but real showpieces.”

Robust and sweet

Gold was awarded across the board in the Single Malt: Speyside – Aged Between 19 and 30 Years. Winning whiskies included Benromach 21 Years Old, described as “robust and sweet – a great example of Speyside whisky”.

Two more Golds joined the party in the flight that looked at whiskies aged over 31 years. Glenbugie 04/10/1988 from Whisky 1901 and Craigellachie 37 Years Old were the worthy winners. The Glenbugie bottling was found to taste like “pomelo, pear, baking spice, and lemon oils”.

But where can you find bang for your buck in Speyside? As the top scorer in the Single Malt: Speyside – Premium (£26-£50) flight, Darkness 8 Years Old was a standout. Moss found this to have “lovely purity, fresh apple and floral notes – so layered and elegant”. Two Golds and a Silver finished the flight.

The Super-Premium (£51-£99) heat saw one Silver medal, and one Gold for “sweet and spicy” 85.92 – Fires the Imagination.

Four Gold medals made themselves known in the Single Cask flight, alongside three Master winners. Two of the top awards went to The Single Cask bottlings: “rich and expressive” The Single Cask Mortlach #255, First-Fill Oloroso Quarter Cask, which had “intense dried fruit and spice”; and The Single Cask Benrinnes #313795D Finished in First-Fill Ruby Port Barrel, which had “lots of caramelised fruit” notes.

Spey Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival Bottling 2024 also received a Master award for its “impressive delicacy and poise”. Notable flavours included “hints of soot, floral and husk”.

The SMWS added to its medal tally in the Single Malt: Speyside – Cask Strength flight, securing Gold for 35.384 – Soy Sauce on Christmas Cake.

Glen Marnoch Islay Single Malt won a Silver medal, deemed to be great value for under-£25 in the Standard flight. Meanwhile, Islay Traditional Cask from Berry Bros & Rudd, and Port Askaig Aged 8 Years both gained Golds in the Premium (£36-£50) flight.

Kilchoman Distillery elevated the Islay flights with two Master medals and a Gold in the no-age-statement flight. One of the top medals went to Kilchoman Sanaig, said to be “rich and deep with umami characteristic Islay notes”.

Linger on

Port Askaig Aged 17 Years gave a nice boost to Elixir Distillers’ medal haul, securing a Master in the Single Malt: Islay – Aged Between 13 and 18 Years. “Stacks of grain and earthy smoke on the nose; spice is controlled and lingers into the finish,” the judges said. Two Golds and one Silver medal were also awarded in this flight. “There was a great range of styles of smoky whisky,” noted Ilankovan. “There is something for everyone, from light and delicate to big and meaty.”

In the penultimate heat, Single Malt: Islay – Single Cask, two Gold medals and a Silver medal were all handed to The Single Cask. One of the Golds went to The Single Cask Rhinns, described as having “minerality and some tang on the finish”.

The final flight, Single Malt: Islay – Cask Strength finished on a high, and closed the tasting with a trio of Gold medals. Brave New Spirits was one of the Gold winners, taking the coveted medal for its Whiskyheroes ‘The Haunting Songs’ Single Malt. “Sweet and creamy on the nose, milk-bottle sweets,” the judges enthused, enjoying “earthiness and gentle smoke” on the palate.

The mammoth tasting called for a reset as the judges refreshed their palates in anticipation of the final tasting decision of the day: The Scotch Whisky Taste Master 2024. Fresh pours were presented to the judges, who carefully revisited the Master winners of the day. Dubbed the ‘crème de la crème’ of the day, the votes decided the deserving dram was The Single Cask Mortlach #255 First-Fill Oloroso Quarter Cask by The Single Cask.

The takeaway note from the day looks to be that variety – and quality – are thriving when it comes to Scotch whisky. Producers appear committed to playing with the possibilities of flavour. By doing so, they will surely fan the flames of enthusiasm for the category. If all goes to plan, hopefully, the only way is up.